Volume V THE MYSTERIOUS UNFINISHED TEMPLE AT SEGESTA, SICILY...AND BEYOND The archaeological site of Segesta lies in the midst of lush green agricultural lands and rolling hills in the northwestern corner of Sicily. It is typically reached by car from Palermo, a pleasant drive though groves of olive, fruit and nut trees, and vines as this corner of Sicily is a major wine producing area. From Palermo the drive is just over an hour. The site may also be reached from the port of Trapani. Segesta was not one of the better known Greek colonies in Sicily in spite of having most of the accoutrements of a Greek city, including a Greek-style temple and amphitheatre, and adopting both Greek and Phoenician alphabets for their inscriptions. In fact, its population was Elymian, an apparent hybrid of indigenous Sicanians and immigrants from other non-Greek localities, and later including Greeks who intermarried with the locals. The great "mystery" of Segesta is why the City's magnificent Doric temple was left unfinished.
Segesta Temple, view from the northeast		Segesta Temple, view from the southeast
Unlike most other indigenous settlements in Sicily, Segesta readily adopted Greek influences. The city's main commercial and political rival was the Greek colony of Selinunte, ultimately destroyed by the Carthaginians, with whom Segesta had allied itself. At various times, Segesta allied itself with both Athens and Carthage and was briefly conquered Syracuse on two occasions before finally allying itself to the rising power of Rome in 260 BC. It is this complex series of relationships that is at the heart of the most popular explanation for the temple's unfinished condition. As the story goes, Selinunte had allied itself with Syracuse. In a bid to counter this alliance and make a play for a leadership role among the cities of Sicily, Segesta sent envoys to Athens seeking aid. The Athenians approached this request with caution and sent ambassadors to Segesta to investigate. The temple, intended to awe the Athenian delegation into believing Segesta worthy of aid, was nearly finished. When the Athenians left, construction on the temple came to an end. The temple, built around 430-420 BC, is missing many key features. The Doric columns lack fluting. Most blocks used in the lower courses of the building still retain projections, normally cut away upon completion, used in transporting and placing them. Most obviously, the cella (the internal walled building housing the cult image) is missing entirely. Yet it is this emptiness, in a quiet pastoral setting, so different from many urban archaeological sites, that lends a calm grandeur to the structure. Excavations in the residential core of Segesta are ongoing so much more may be learned about this curious ancient city of hybrid culture.
Segesta Temple showing projections used in transporting construction blocks		Segesta Temple, view from the southwest
The country around Segesta offers many worthwhile stops for the traveler. From a purely historical standpoint, it is worth viewing the modern town of Trapani from above. This port, with its adjacent salt pans, sits at the northwestern corner of the triangle that is Sicily. It is claimed that on a particularly clear day one may see the Tunisian coast, just 160 kilometers (100 miles) away from the high ground at Erice (750 meters above sea level). True or not, this claim underscores the easily navigable distances between ancient Carthage (today's Tunisia) and western Sicily. The lush nature of the surrounding country helps explain the intense competition among local and regional powers for control of the area in antiquity.
Trapani, looking west from Erice
The nearby charming town of Erice may be reached by a funicular in Trapani (though this does not run on windy days) or by driving up a road consisting of hair raising twists and turns. The town was known as Eryx in antiquity and had an Elymian population heavily influenced by Carthage. It contains fleeting traces of its Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab and Norman past. Much of the year the town is only sparsely populated and is entirely dependent on tourism for its continued survival. One architectural highlight of the town is the 14th Century "Mother Church" and its much older tower.
Medieval church tower, Erice	Wine shop, Erice	Pastry shop, Erice
For this traveler, the main attractions were the incredible pasticcerias (pastry shops) and the local enoteca (wine shop). The intensity of flavors produced by the multi-colored marzipans, exquisitely rich crèmes and heavenly pastry dough were beyond description! Erice is also quite close to Marsala, an important wine growing region. There are countless marvels to experience in this part of Sicily, especially for the archaeological traveler. These include the Greek site of Selinunte, the Arab-Norman monuments of Palermo and the Byzantine-style monuments of Monreale. And, of course, no shortage of excellent food and wine! This writer encourages all readers to visit the region and experience this for themselves.